CAPO
PASSERO
The extreme southeastern tip of Sicily consists
of a headland with a lighthouse: to sea, it marks the point at which the Ionian
Sea meets the Canale di Sicilia. The local tuna fishery flourished during the
course of this century, and continues to be owned by the Baron of Belmonte,
who, only in 1994, took part in a calata when the fishermen go out to
lay the nets far catching tuna.
The complex comprises canning works albeit now
unused, where the tuna was put into tins, a house for the Rais – the
quarter-master responsible for overseeing the mattanza (the killing of
the tuna) and a family residence for the owner himself. A splendid view
stretches across the water to the open horizon: a seascape which changes
tirelessly at the whim of the elements.
A natural channel separates the islet of Capo
Passero from the mainland; this can prove to be an especially strategic place
to lay nets when the tuna are running. The islet, meanwhile, has been subject
to a campulsorily purchase so that the colony of dwarf palms growing there
might be protected; this has forced the fish-rearing tanks that were there to
be jettisoned at sea, and has decimated tuna fishing in the area; as a result,
the place is no longer the centre of activity it used
to be.
Portopalo di Capo Passero – This comprises the
small picturesque archetypal fishing-village. Naturally, the hub of activity is
the harbour where, between noon and 2pm, the fishing-boats return and the quays
suddenly throng with curious old men and busy housewives come to purchase the
fresh catch straight from the sea.
A curious
fact about the mattanza
During the catch, the fishermen used to signal
the number of tuna netted in the various Chambers: a white flag was flown when
there were ten; a red one meant there were 20; a white one for 30; a red and
white one to signal 40, and so on. If they were unable to estimate the number
of fish, they used to wave a sailor’s jacket on top of an oar, a gesture known
as u' cappottu, which meant “we can’t count them any more, there are too
many".