Geography
Bordered by the
Channel of Sicily to the south and by the provinces of Caltanissetta, Catania
and Siracusa from west to east, the province of Ragusa has a mainly mountainous
territory which is almost entirely covered by the Iblean Mountains; this is why
is often referred to as the Iblean area; the highest peak, the Lauro Mount,
rises up to 986 meters. A flat area, being the main agricultural resource,
stretches in the northern reaches of the province: it is the valley of the
Ippari river, where the cities of Acate, Vittoria and Comiso have grown.
The Iblean
landscape is rather dry and rocky, the grounds being richest in limestone.
Nonetheless, especially during the spring, it is able to offer the amazing
colors of a wild and harsh beauty. The countryside is often crossed by gorges
resulting from the rivers’ erosion throughout the centuries.
The construction
of dams on the Acate, Mazzarrone and Irminio rivers have resulted in precious
reserves of water, in an effort to solve what has been a deep-rooted problem
for the entire island. The province’s vegetation, varying according to the
altitude, is largely Mediterranean. Oaks and plane-trees grow especially in the
mountainside; while the oleander, the fig-tree, the acanthus, the caper, reeds
and, most of all, the carob-tree can be found in the plain areas. The fauna,
not very abundant because of the intense deforestation of the past centuries,
is mainly comprised of wild rabbit, weasel and winged animals in the mountain
side, rare birds like the pink flamingo, the soon-bill and the osprey in the
marshy areas (notably near the dams), and several species of sea-gulls on the
coast.
The Mediterranean
climate is characterized by cold winters and hot and dry summers in the
mountainous and inland areas; while the coast is milder and more humid.
Economy
Despite its not
very propitious climate and grounds, the province of Ragusa is primarily an
agricultural area. The hard work of generations of peasants and farmers,
intense works of deforestation and reclamation over the centuries have resulted
in a modern agriculture with high output and income levels. The technological
development of the last years has been also fundamental to the economy.
The Valley of the
Ippari river is a major agricultural area, important for the output of early
fruit, vegetables, citrus fruit and flowers, and for the presence of the
agricultural market of Vittoria, a precious support for the trade and marketing
of the products. The hothouse cultivation, mostly located on the coast, is also
worth-mentioning.
The industry, that
in Sicily has only recently developed in comparison with the rest of Italy, has
been played an increasingly important role, and represents today a considerable
source of income and employement. The main industrial activities are those
involved in processing and marketing the agricultural products. Thus, a great
number of oil and flour mills, cheese, confectionery and wine factories are
spread across the entire territory. The building (notably stone, asphalt, and
black-stone factories), and the mining industry (oil is extracted in the area
of Marina di Ragusa), have been growing rapidly.
The tourism is as
much important today, at last able to take advantage of the range of
archaeological, artistic and naturalistic riches of the province. Notably, the
last decade has seen an outstanding growth, with the construction of new
tourism facilities.
History
The historical
roots of the province of Ragusa are entwined with those of Sicily. The Sicans
and the Sikels (18th-8th century BC) are considered to be
the earliest inhabitants of the island; the Phoenicians and the Greeks were the
earliest colonizers in the 8th century BC; then came the Romans (3rd
century BC) who made Sicily a
Province of the Empire; the Byzantines and the Barbarians (Goths, Visigoths and
Vandals) ruled between the 4th and 8th century AD; the
Arabians (8th-10th centuries), like the Greeks, are
remembered for having fostered the economical and cultural growth of the
Island; under the Normans (11th-13th century) the Island
likely achieved its highest economic prosperity; finally there were the French
Angevins (13th century) who would be driven by a general revolt
broken out in 1282, known as the The Sicilian Vespers.
Sicily became a
Province of the Spanish Kingdom of Aragon, under King Peter III, who soon
fostered a policy of administrative autonomy. So came the two Counties of
Modica and Ragusa, that would join into one after Isabella Mosca’s (heir to the
county of Modica) marriage to Manfredi Chiaramonte (heir to Ragusa’s).
The Chiaramontes,
descendants of Charlemagne, ruled for over a century of economic and political
prosperity, gaining, through marriages of convenience and political intrigues,
an outstanding position in the Sicilian society. The County remarkably expanded
its dominions, that soon included Cefalù, the territory of the Marca Anconitana
and the estates of Caccamo and Gulfi. The count and his close relatives were
granted important titles and privileges, like that of Captain Executioner of Palermo,
General Vicar, Grand Seneschal (Manfred I), Lord of Nicosia (Giacomo), Vicar
(Manfred III) – who was entrusted to rule one of the four administrative areas
(Vicariates) of Sicily at the time of King Frederick. In 1392, Giacomo, the
last of the Chiaramontes, was arrested and sentenced to death for leading a
coalition against the king.
So ended the cycle
of this dynasty who in a few decades had become one of the wealthiest and
mightiest of all Sicily, a specimen of that local power that in the feudal age
even surpassed the King himself’s.
There came the
rise of a new dynasty, the Cabrera (or Caprera), whose most distinguished
member was Bernardo, who took possession of all the Chiaramonte properties and
brought about a period of serious disorders within the County most fostered by
Chiaramonte’s loyal followers. Attempts at revolt were soon repressed through
killings, tortures and imprisonments, allowing Bernardo Cabrera to rule and
extend the County to an area as large as the current province of Ragusa. He, a
devoted vassal of King of Sicily Martin I of Aragon, was proclaimed Captain of
the Army. Following Martin I’s, and his successor Martin II’s (1411) death,
Bernardo’s attempt to interfere with the role of Bianca of Navarra, Vicar of
Sicily and Martin II’s daughter-in-law, resulted in a dispute lasted several
years that led up to the designation of Ferdinand I as King of Sicily. Hit by
plague, Bernardo died that very year (1411), and buried in the Cathedral of St.
George in Ragusa (migrated to the new one following 1693’s earthquake).
A period of
repeated insurrections followed, people still displeased with Cabrera’s policy.
In 1447, in Ragusa, a revolt would result in the fire of the County’s Archive
and the murder of Giovanni Bernardo Cabrera, the newly proclaimed Count, who,
in king’s honor, had conquered Naples few years before (1442). Because of the
disorders the County’s Chancellery was transferred from Ragusa to Modica, that
thus became the main city in the County.
Giovanni II (1466) and then Giannotto (1474) succeeded Giovanni
Bernardo. A tragic event took place in 1474, when an accident in
the Jewish quarter of Modica, known as Cartellone, spread out as a chase
after the jew across all Sicily; the event is still sadly reminded as the Massacre
of the Jews. In 1480, Anna Cabrera, Giannotto’s sister, married Federico
Henriquez, a descendant of the royal family of Aragon. A new cycle was to begin
for the County: that of the Henriquez dynasty, during which the County was
handed down from father to son till 1702, when Giovan Tommaso Henriquez was
executed for rebelling against the kingdom, by having supported a coalition led
by Charles of Austria.
On the whole, both
under the Henriquez and the late members of the Cabrera family the County lost
much of the importance and prestige achieved at the time of the Chiaramontes.
Repeated insurrections and rebellions would characterize the following years,
attesting to the subjects’ displeasure at the new dynasty’s policy. Only
worth-mentioning was the foundation of the city of Vittoria around 1600, in
Vittoria Colonna’s – Luigi Henriquez’s wife – honor. A new tragic event was
recorded in 1693. A terrible earthquake hit the Eastern Sicily, razing to the
ground entire towns, among which were Catania, Lentini, Noto, Scicli, Ragusa
and Chiaramonte. Others like Modica, Spaccaforno, Niscemi, Vittoria, suffered
heavy damages. Effects were catastrophic: over 60,000 dead; tens of thousands
among houses, buildings, monuments, works of art and precious specimens of the past
ages were irreparably lost. A sumptuous reconstruction followed, notably in the
fifty years following the earthquake, meant, on the one side, to celebrate the
magnificence and the power of local elites – Aristocracy and Clergy – who
economically supported it, and, on the other, to show the pride and superiority
of human over nature.
Giovan Tommaso’s
execution put an end to the autonomy of the County, whose title would, ever
since, consisted of a mere formal meaning. Under the successive Alvarez and
Fits-Stuarts dynasties the County was directly governed by the Kingdom, whose
fate it would share till nowadays.
In 1713, Sicily
passed to the Kingdom of Savoy, who ceded it few years later to the Austrian
Hapsburgs. In 1734, it was conquered by Bourbon’s Kingdom of the Two Sicilies,
comprising most of the Southern Italy. In 1861, the year of the independence
from Spain, it was assimilated into the Kingdom of Italy. Till 1926, when
Ragusa was proclaimed a province, the territory of the former-County fell within
the administrative control of Siracusa.