PIRAINO
Stretched out along the spine of a hill,
enjoying a strategic position, Piraino is a small town in the hinterland of the
Messina province. It retains much of its medieval form. According to legend, it
was founded by the cyclops Piracom – Arges in Homer – one ot the three
ministers of Vulcan. Its origins are more likely rooted in the discovery of
large bones in several caves nearby, erroneously believed to have belonged to
the cyclops. The town churches are all strung along the main street. The Chiesa
del Rosario, the easternmost, rebuilt in 1635, retains a 1500’s belfry.
Inside, it has a fine coffered building with Byzantine-Norman rose windows and
an unusual wooden main altar painted with floral motifs (first half of the 17th
century) decorated with wooden medallions representing the Mysteries of the
Rosary; the wooden figures in the centre of the altar represent the Madonna
with Saints. Further along stands the Chiesa della Catena, erected
in the late 17th century, where the first National elections were
held, after the Unification of Italy. The church contains fine frescoes in the
Byzantine-style, that were recovered from the Chiesa della Badia.
Beyond is Piazza del Baglio, named after the
complex of low-level workers houses and workshops arranged around the Palazzo
Ducale, built by the Lancia family (15-16th century). Proceeding
westwards, the way leads up the highest part of the town, where is the
beautifully preserved Torre Saracena or Torrazza, dating back to
the 10th century, that offers a splendid sight over Capo d’Orlando
and on the rooftops nestling below. The tower was part of a defensive system
which would have transmitted signals from the 1500’s Torre delle Ciavole
on the coast, via the Guardiola situated north of the town, to the
Torrazza.
On the western edge of town, stands the Chiesa
di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria, built in the 1500’s but extensively
refurbished in the following century. Inside is a wooden altar decorated with
floral motifs. Right of the altar is a fine pilaster ornamented with a
shallow-relief depicting Saint Catherine overcoming the Infidel.
Turn back towards the coast. On the left rises the Torre delle Ciavole. Continue on to the small seaside resort of Gioiosa Marea and follow signs for S. Filippo Armo and S. Leonardo (about 9km) to Gioiosa Guardia.