Holy Places
A tour through Sicily’s religious sites and
monuments allow the tourist to experience unique impressive places, major
symbols of Sicilians’ strong and abiding religious faith. Sicilian religious
(and cities’) architecture has much evolved over the centuries, also due to
natural devastating catastrophes being the cause of extensive restoration or
reconstruction works.
History and successive dominations have left
indelible traces also, today more or less clearly visible in the many
catacombs, churches, monuments and pieces of art scattered across our Island
which make it a major destination of religious tourism. Paleo-Christians,
Byzantines, Normans, Arabians, Swabian, French and Spaniards left unmistakable
traces of their passage.
Our tour through Sicily’s religious sites
starts in Palermo, the Island capital, showing a mixture of architectonic
styles.
The imposing Cathedral dedicated to the
Virgin Assunta is one of the city’s most praised monuments. Begun in 1184 on
the site of a former Muslim mosque, it shows a splendid Norman-style façade
with two characteristic bell-towers. Its three-naves are framed by numerous
pilasters bearing sculptures dedicated to the Saints. It houses plenty of
impressing sacred works like the Chapel of S. Rosalie, where repose the
relics of the Saint, and the Cappella del Sacramento containing a wooden
crucifix dating back to around 1300 and a 15th century marble statue
representing the Virgin and Child.
Palermo’s Norman Palatin Chapel is
housed in the well-known Norman Palace. Begun in 1130, this has three
naves and a dome ornamented with an impressive mosaic of the Christ
Pantocrator surrounded by Angels and Archangels and is enriched with
numerous other mosaics from different epochs, portraying biblical figures or events.
The Anglican Church of the Holy Cross
was founded by a British community that settled here in the 19th
century, and later enlarged. Visitors may admire several works of art: stained
glass windows in the apse, amazing mosaics and columns’ capitals, a rose window
representing The Adoration of the Lamb.
The
church dedicated to Saint Mary of the Admiral or Martorana was
built in 1143 at the behest of Giorgio of Antioch, an admiral of Roger II, and
was later run by the Convent founded by Eloisa Martorana. A splendid
Norman-Arab bell-tower is what remains of the ancient temple. The church is
built in the form of a greek cross and preserves some of the most beautiful
mosaics produced in Sicily in the 12th century, displaying scenes of
the New and Old Testaments, of the Apostles, the Prophets, the Blessing Christ
at the centre of the Cupola, and King Roger being crowned by Christ, attributed
to the hand of Borremans. From around 1930 the church is part of the
Byzantine-Catholic diocese of Piana degli Albanesi.
The Santuario di Mondello, atop Mount
Pellegrino, is dedicated to Saint Rosalie, a young woman of the 12th
century, thought to belong to the Norman ruling family, who settled and lived
there as a hermit. After her death many miracles were attributed to this saint,
among which that of having stemmed a plague that ravaged Palermo in the 17th
century. The picturesque baroque-style shrine was built in 1624 and houses many
effigies of the Saint.
Monreale, in the Palermo hinterland,
overlooking the Conca d’Oro, is a popular worshipping and tourism site; in the
past it was a favorite retreat of the Norman rulers. Still it offers a dramatic
panorama thanks to its privileged location. It boasts several worth-mentioning
monuments:
first is
the well-known Cathedral, a monument that reflects various influences.
Built in the 12th century on a latin-cross layout, it preserves
numerous pieces of art: a magnificent mosaic of the Christ Pantocrator – an
image often recurring in the churches of the island – surrounded by the angels
ornaments the main apse, above the image of the Virgin on a throne.
Other splendid mosaics depicting scenes from the New and Old Testaments. Its
imposing façade, retaining the square towers, one of which remained incomplete,
bears impressing bronze doors divided into various panels illustrating biblical
episodes.
Cefalù, in the Palermo province, is a
picturesque city nestled along the Tyrrhenian coast, below a wide mountain
chain. It saw its heyday under the Norman rulers. The Norman Cathedral going
back to Roger II reign is outstanding, much alike the one in Monreale. This
impressive building has a basilical plan with three nave and aisles divided by
granite columns bearing finest capitals and arches. The dominant feature
of the cathedral are the two majestic front towers. The façade has a
magnificent portico and a richly decorated marble doorway dating back to the 15th
century. A lovely
Crucifix dating back to the 15th century and rich mosaics are
preserved indide.
Our tour then moves on to the ancient Siracusa,
whose religious monuments are as much noted as its Greek Theatre and remnants.
Notably, the Catacombe di San Giovanni s attest to the city’s prominence
in the early centuries of the Christian Era.
Also important are the Duomo dedicated to
St. Lucy, sitting in Duomo Square, on Ortygia’s smallest Island. The church is
preceded by a splendid flight of steps graced with 18th century
statues dedicated to Saints Pietro, Paolo, Marziano – the first Syracusan
bishop – and Lucy, the city’s patron saint. The cathedral has remotest origins,
being built on the site of a former pagan temple dedicated to Athena built at
behest of tyrant Gelone to celebrate Syracuse victory over Carthage. In the 7th
century AD the temple was turned into a christian church soon to be the seat of
the Cathedral. Highly damaged by two devastating earthquakes in 1542 and 1693,
it was restructured to a baroque look. Inside, it has nave and aisles divided
by ancient greek columns and chapels, among which outstanding are that of St.
Lucy, erected in the 18th century, containing a silvered statue
of the Saint made by Rizzo in 1599, the chapel of the SS. Sacramento
with many beautiful stuccoes, and the 17th century Chapel of the
Holy Cross, guarding a wooden Byzantin Crucifix.
The Church of St. Sebastian, at Melilli,
Syracuse, was erected in 1751 and is especially noted for its paintings by
praised Olivio Sozzi depicting The Crowning of San Sebastian, The
Triumph of the Faith and other pieces of art that attest to people devotion
to the titular saint.
The impressive Noto, in the Syracuse province,
is regarded as the Capital of Sicilian Baroque. Following 1693 earthquake the
city governors and notables wanted a rich and elegant reconstruction of the
city centre destined to become a major destination of tourists from across the
world.
The 18th century Mother Church
is by far Noto’s most beautiful monument. The church, dedicated to Saint
Nicholas from Mira, was elevated to Cathedral status in 1844. It has
three-naves with dome and side chapels. Inside, it preserves outstanding works
of art like a 16th century polychromatic sculpture depicting the Madonna
delle Grazie surrounded by the Cherubs, a chapel dedicated to Saint Corrado
Confalonieri guarding a silver urn with the Saint’s relics. The chancel is
adorned with frescoes of the Evangelists, of the Christ’s Resurrection et al.
The cathedral is, alas, under restoration due
to the dome collapse following the 1999 earthquake. On Duomo Square also stand
the Bishop’s Palace, next to the church, and the Chiesa del Salvatore,
with an adjoined monastery. The church, currently under restoration, was
erected in the late 1800s with an elliptical plan.
Albeit not largest, Noto boasts other
noteworthy sacred monuments, like the Hermitage of Saint Corrado Fuori le
Mura (outside the city walls), a 1759’s baroque church dedicated to the
patron saint of Noto, housing very important works and paintings.
A final mention must go to the Chiesa di
Santa Maria della Scala, now a major goal of pilgrimages, built in the
early 1700s on the ruins of a church razed to the ground by the 1693 quake.
Outstanding is the image of the Madonna della Scala painted on a rock, likely
in the Byzantine epoch.
Another interesting shrine is located at Ragusa
Ibla: the Duomo, in the old side of the city, dedicated to St. George. Its
baroque look results from the extensive reconstruction on the former St.
Nicholas’ church following the 1693 quake disaster. A fine, slightly asymmetric
– after the square before – staircase leads up to the front doorway. The church
was designed by the well-known architect Gagliardi with an imposing bell-tower.
The eye-catching façade is divided into three storeys, with a richly decorated
main doorway, a Neoclassic dome by
Carmelo Cutrano in 1820. The interior has a latin-cross plan with three
naves ornamented with works of art among which outstanding are several
altar-pieces by the noted Vito D’Anna.
Sitll in Ragusa Ibla stands the 14th
century Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Scale, built in the 14th
century on the site of an ancient convent and rebuilt after the 1693 disaster.
Of the ancient building only remain a gothic pulpit and renaissance and gothic
chapels. Worth-noting is a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Assunta, guarding a
1538 polychrome terracotta high-relief.
Ragusa’s Cathedral dedicated to St. John
the Baptist was completed in 1760 with a wide baroque façade enriched with
three statues of the Immacolate Virgin,
the Baptist and of St. John the Evangelist. The front elevation features a spired
bell-tower and a glorious portal. Inside, it is divided into three naves and
richly decorated with stuccoes, works of art and holy pieces, such as a
pitch-stone statue of St. John dated 1513, unearthed from the ruins of the
ancient temple. It also preserves some precious paintings portraying Jesus
Christ, St. Philip Neri and Saint Gregory the Great.
Ispica, in the Ragusa province, accommodates a
number of interesting churches and sites. The church of Santa Maria Maggiore
contains precious stuccoes and 18th century frescoes by Sozzi.
Notably, the central nave is frescoed with biblical episodes and figures from
the Old and New Testaments. The aisles bear medallions depicting the four
Cardinal Virtues. The dome, also, is adorned with admirable frescoes dedicated
to the patriarchs, the prophetes, the virgin martyrs, the prelates and the
founders of religious orders. The church façade, dated 1700, underwent
restoration work in the 19th century.
The Chiesa di Santa Maria dell’Annunziata,
erected in the early 1700s, is renowned for its cycle of stuccoes dating from
the 18th century depicting scenes from the Old and New Testaments.
It also
preserves a group of statues, dedicated to the Resurrected Christ, that
survived the quake of 1693 that, instead, largely destroyed the original
building.
Modica’s St. George cathedral is
majestic. According to historical documents the cathedral rose on the ruins of
a little church dedicated to the Holy Cross and destroyed by the Arabs in 845.
The Cathedral was built by order of the Norman Count Roger of Hautville in
1090, who, according to legend, meant to celebrate the saint knight who in a
dream had suggested him how to defeat his enemies. Over the centuries, this has
undergone various changes and restorations. The magnificent stairway,
connecting the low and the upper sides of the city dates from around 1700. The
imposing baroque façade is divided into three architectonic orders. The
five-nave interior is ornamented with such incredible works as a precious
polyptych behind the major altar, by Bernardino Niger, portraying, in nine
panels, scenes from the life of knight saints George and Martin, the Old and
New Testaments et al. Equally precious are a painting by Paladino, dated 1610,
depicting the Madonna Assunta in Cielo, self-portraying the author near
a group of Apostles; a picture depicting the martyrdom of St. Hippolyte, by
Cicalesius, and a small ark containing the saint’s relics; a statue of the Madonna
della Neve dated 1511.
The town has plenty of churches although many have
been desecrated over the years. The stately SS. Peter and Paul’s Church,
set in the city centre in front of the historical Jewish quarter, has a fine
stairway enriched with statues of the Apostles, the so-called Santoni.
It was built in the 14th century and, as well as many others in this
part of Sicily, was extensively reconstructed following the 1693 noted quake
that devastated the entire Noto Valley (defining the south-eastern Sicily). Its
late-baroque façade bears four statues of the Virgin Mary, St. Peter, St.
Cataldo and St. Rosalie. It has three naves adorned with various pieces of art.
Noteworthy are the ceiling medallions portraying the Doctors of the Church,
a marble statue of the Madonna di Trapani, a wooden sculpture depicting Saint
Peter and the Paralytic made by Civiletti in 1893.
The subsequent stop is at the well-noted, just
restored church of Santa Maria di Betlem, built in the 15th
century on the ruins of four small local churches. Of the ancient churches only
remains, on the west side of today’s building, a low-relief portraying the
Nativity. The church interior has three naves graced with a lovely wooden
caisson ceiling and appreciated works like the chapel of the SS. Sacramento,
also known as Palatin Chapel, dating from between 15th and 16th
centuries and containing some tombs of noble families. A lovely Christmas Crib,
inside the chapel, have contributed to make the church a favorite destination
of tourists. This consists of 60 painted terracotta pieces, made by Fra’
Benedetto Papale Minimo in 1882. The Holy Crib is made from several local
materials such as limestone and carob wood.
The picturesque Scicli, in the Ragusa province,
is an ancient river outpost that boasts several worth-seeing churches and
works.
The church of Santa Maria La Nova
situated near the hills of Santa Cassa and Rosario, was erected in the 15th
century and successively enlarged. It has a neoclassic look and contains
several precious works: among these is a statue of the Immacolata dating
from the first half of the 19th century, a wooden statue of the Resurrected
Christ, a marble statue of the Madonna della Neve from the late
1400s, stuccoes and frescoes depicting scenes from Jesus Christ’s life, a
choirstall in the main altar representing The Nativity of the Virgin Mary,
St. Matthew’s Church is really amazing albeit heavily
damaged. It dates from the 12th century and has a baroque façade
remained incomplete.
The church of Saint Bartholomew, in the Cava
(valley) of the same name, dating from before the 15th century, is
one of the few having survived the 1693 quake almost undamaged. It shows an
imposing look and contains very interesting works including a fine wooden (from
lime-tree) Holy Crib by Padula, from the second half of the 18th
century, several paintings and stuccoes.
The Messina area also offers many beautiful
churches and religious sites.
The Duomo, of Norman origin, in Messina,
dedicated to Saint Mary, have an extremely unfortunate history, having suffered
several fires (1254 and 1940s) and earthquakes (1693 and 1783), that caused
loss of or damage to works of inestimable value. It was consecrated in 1197 in
the presence of the Emperor Henry IV. Many of the works contained inside are
just reproductions of originals gone destroyed by the said catastrophes. The
today’s interior has a basilical plan divided into three naves by monolithic
columns and contains interesting figurative works, a statue of St. John the
Baptist attributed to praised artist Antonello Gagini, a 15th
century shallow-relief depicting Saint Jerome and a wooden 18th
century crucifix. The façade is graced with a fine campanile, detached from the
main building. Its three doorways are preciously decorated.
The church of the Annunziata, dating
from between the 12th and 13th century, was erected on
the site of a former pagan temple. Its beauty owes much to the mixture of
different architectonic styles.
The 18th century Chiesa di S.
Maria degli Alemanni, in Messina, derives its name from the military order
of Teutonic Knights who built it, and a hospital next to it. It is one of the
fewest gothic monuments remained in Sicily, although it retains little of its
two original buildings. The Teutonic Knights abandoned this area around the
late 15th century, what contributed to the decline of the buildings.
The remains consist of an ogival arch belonging to the ancient hospital, and
the church’s original three naves – divided by pillars graced with a fine
cross-vault and decorations – and images of humans and monsters in the
capitals.
The Cathedral in Santa Lucia del Mela is
a much interesting monument dating back to the Norman epoch, then rebuilt and
enlarged between the late 16th and the early 17th
century. Its Renaissance interior design has three naves divided by columns
with doric capitals. It contains several precious works. Two are especially
mentioning: a table dedicated to Saint Mark the Evangelist, by Guinacci, from
the end of the 16th century, and a 18th century wooden
Crucifix.
The ancient Duomo in Milazzo is a lovely
baroque church with a fine portal in the late Renaissance style. Today, it is
in poor conditions and requires an extensive restoration.
Patti Cathedral, dated 1131, has
undergone considerable works of reconstruction as show the numerous relics and
works dating from the 1300s and 1400s and its 16th century Campanile,
dated 1588. The most important changes were carried out after the 1693
earthquake and the more recent 1978’s. It has a single-nave and houses many
prized relics and pieces: two interesting 18th century chapels, a 16th
century painting by Antonello de Saliba and an outstanding marble sepulchre
dated 1557, dedicated to Count Roger’s wife, Adelaide, mother of Roger II, who
died in Patti in 1118.
Caltanissetta is home to many religious
monuments that fairly attest to the city’s abiding christian faith.
The church of S. Agata al Collegio,
began in 1605 by the Jesuit Fathers is the most attractive and important.
Designed in the form of a greek-cross, the interior is enriched with marble
pieces and other works like the altar dedicated to the Madonna del Carmine.
The Cathedral of S. Maria La Nova and
St. Michael, in Caltanissetta, built between the late 1500s and the early
1600s is much appreciated by tourists. The church interior, in the shape of a
latin-cross, is divided into three naves. In the central nave there are
stuccoes and frescoes by Guglielmo Borremans dating back to the early 1700s.
The chapel of the Immacolata, containing a nice wooden statue, and the Chapel
of St. Michael the Archangel, with a polychrome wooden statue are its best attractions.
At Gela stands the small and ancient Capuchins’
Church dedicated to the Madonna delle Grazie. It is a single-nave
building that the Friars erected around 1261. Originally situated out of the
city walls and constantly subjected to raids by Saracens, it was moved to a
safer location towards the end of the 16th century. Recently
restored, it claims among its main works a wooden carved altarpiece and eight
windows in gothic style.
The small church of Saint Mary, erected
in 1230, was seriously damaged by the 1693 earthquake and reconstructed larger
in the form of a latin cross with three naves. It retains the remains of a
doric column, and, above the two side entrances, two marble tombstones bearing
ancient inscriptions. The bell-tower was built in the early 1800s.
Religious monuments and buildings in the
Agrigento province.
Agrigento’s Cathedral of Saint Gerlando,
whose construction dates back to the 11th century, has undergone
considerable changes throughout the centuries. It is designed in the shape of a
latin-cross with three naves divided by ogival arches supported by octagonal
pillars. The roof bears images of Saints and Bishops, and several
heraldic symbols. A small chapel dedicated to St. Gerlando, the city
patron, guards a silver reliquary. The church preserves other pieces of art
like a marble statue portraying the Virgin Mary and Child dating back to
the late 15th century, and several sepulchres, among which is that
of Gaspare de Marinis, inside a chapel of the same name. Outstanding is the
Cathedral’s Treasure with, among others, a beautiful image of the Virgin
Mary. The exterior of the building is graced with a lovely bell-tower and
windows recalling the Catalan-Gothic architectonic style. The façade is in the
baroque style.
The medieval church of Santa Maria dei Greci,
complete with a 13th century gothic portal, has three naves housing
a fine wooden statue of the Virgin and Child dating back to the early
1500s.
It rose on
a 5th century BC doric temple, probably dedicated to Athena and
still retains remnants of the old building.
The Roman-Gothic Church of Saint Nicholas,
in the old city, was built by the Cistercian fathers in the 13th
century on the ruins of a temple from the 1st century BC. It has a
single-nave with four chapels and many interesting sacred and figurative works,
such as a 16th century cycle of frescoes dedicated to Saints, a
sarcophagus within one of the chapels, a wooden Crucifix, a marble statue of
the Virgin and Child dating back to the 16th century.
In Caltabellotta, few kilometers from
Agrigento, is the Hermitage of S. Pellegrino, comprising a monastery and
a church. The building sitting on a plateau overlooking the city was built in
the 18th century and later enlarged.
At the western end of Sicily stands the Trapani
province, an area that saw a largest prosperity under the Phoenecians in the 8th
century BC.
The baroque Cathedral of San Lorenzo,
built in the early 1600s with a lovely façade, was erected on the site of a
1300’s church. It has three-naves and houses precious works: a fine crucifix
attributed to Trapani painter Lo Verde and the coat of arms of Genoa.
The Sanctuary of the Annunciation dates
from the 14th century and was long since restored. It retains its
original façade with a rose-window, a gothic portal dating back to the 1400s
and statues of the Angels and the Virgin Mary. The church interior has one
large nave with two beautiful chapels: the Baptistery Chapel of the
Fishermen, from the late 16th century; containing a gothic arch,
16th century frescoes and important gothic and arabian-norman
relics; and the Chapel of the Virgin Mary, containing a marble arch and
a marble statue of the Virgin and Child known as the Madonna di
Trapani.
The beautiful Erice (Eryx), founded by the
ancient Elymians, is home to an impressive Mother Church dedicated to
the Our Lady of the Assumption built in the early 1300s. The building exterior
is graced with a bell-tower, probably serving as a watch-tower during the
Aragonese reign. The interior has three naves and recalls the gothic
architecture. It houses a 14th century statue portraying the Virgin
and Child and a marble altarpiece dating from the early 1500s.
The Duomo of Marsala, dedicated to Saint
Thomas of Canterbury, built in 1628, on the site of a former Norman temple, has
undergone many restorations over the centuries. It has a three-nave plan and
boasts several outstanding works such as a Chapel housing a marble statue of
the Assunta and marble panels by the praised artist Antonello Gagini.
Mazara del Vallo’s Cathedral was built
in 1093, when the Eparchy was established. This three-naved basilica contains
outstanding works by Antonello Gagini and by his son Antonino.
It houses
an important museum.
Enna, the only Sicilian province having no outlet
to the sea, offers a variety of monuments.
Its Cathedral,
built in 1307 was destroyed by a fire in the 15th century and then
reconstructed. The three naves inside are divided by pointed arches supported
by finely decorated columns. Some capitals bear the Evangelists’ heraldic
symbols made by Gian Domenico Gagini. The church houses many interesting works
such as statues, altar-pieces and frescoes.
The Duomo of Piazza Armerina, dedicated
to the Assunta, dates from the early 1600s. Designed in the shape of a
latin-cross, it has a single nave and houses many important works, among which
outstanding is a Madonna believed to be a gift from Pope Nicholas II to
Count Roger.
The Cathedral of Nicosia, dedicated to
St. Nicholas, was built in the 14th century on the ruins of a Norman
church. It has undergone many restorations over the centuries. The building
exterior features an impressing 1300’s bell-tower and three portals. The church
is the seat of a bishop.
Catania, the second largest Sicilian city,
boasting an ancient history and seat of a famous university, has plenty of
amazing religious monuments and churches.
The city Cathedral, dedicated to patron
Sant’Agata, is by far its most renowned religious building. It was built by the
Count Roger in the early period of the Norman rule in Sicily on the site of a
Christian temple, of which remained a part of the transept and three
semi-circular apses. Inside, tourists may admire the sepulchres of the Aragon
monarchs and the tomb of the praised composer Bellini. The bell
tower was raised in 1868 by the architect Carmelo Sciuto Patti. Inside, it has three naves divided
by pilasters that bear paintings by Borramans. Outstanding is the St. Agatha
Treasure containing precious relics of the saint and offerings by her
devotees.
The church of S. Benedetto dates from
the early 1700s. It is a single-nave church with vault frescoes and a precious
18th century major altar.
The Collegiata Church is Catania’s Royal
Chapel. Built in the early years of the 18th century, it is complete
with a fine late baroque façade. The interior, in the shape of a latin-cross,
has three naves and outstanding dome frescoes and paintings.
The Church of St. Nicholas was completed
a few years before the devastating earthquake of 1693 and long since rebuilt.
It is a beautiful church with a latin-cross plan and three naves housing
numerous sacred images dedicated to St. Gregory and St. Joseph, and scenes from
the New Testament. The Benedictin Monastery, standing next to the church
and dedicated to Saint Nicholas, today houses the Faculty of Literature and
Philosophy.
The church of S. Agata la Vetere,
rebuilt after the 1693 earthquake, replaced a paleo-christian basilica and
preserves an interesting sarcophagus of St. Agatha.
The church of Maria SS. della Stella, in
Militello Val di Catania, is one with such outstanding works of art as a
terracotta ancona depicting the Nativity, and another depicting the Martyrdom
of St. Bartholomew.
The Duomo of Acireale, dedicated to the
Annunziata and Santa Venera, was built between the late 1500s and the early
1600s. The central nave bears interesting frescoes portraying the two Saints.
The Basilica of Saint Mary, in Randazzo,
is an ancient holy construction of Norman-Swabian origin. Completed in 1239, it
underwent many restorations throughout the centuries. The central vault bears
interesting frescoes: one, dating back to the 13th century, portrays
the Madonna del Pileri.
The church of S. Margherita in Sciacca,
Agrigento, was willed to the city by Eleanore of Aragon and successively
completed by the Teutonic Knights. It was enlarged in the 16th
century.
Outside, it
has a simple structure with windows and doorways. Its single nave is decorated
with beautiful polychrome stuccoes.